Gone Fishing in Craig, Montana

Every so often, I get one of those invitations you simply can’t turn down.

A very old friend from England (in fact, I was his best man) called out of the blue: “John, there’s this American couple I know. They own a lodge in Montana. They’ve invited us to come fishing. We can stay for free, drink their wine, and try to catch as many trout as possible. All we have to do is pay for the guide and get ourselves there.”

Now, if you know me at all, you’ll know that’s my kind of offer. Some people might say, “Montana? That’s far. Complicated. Expensive.”

I, on the other hand, heard: Montana, quality time with an old friend, new people, new stories, trout, and fresh air. Within the hour, I was looking at flights.

Arriving at Rivenrock Lodge

A few weeks later, Emma and I landed in Bozeman, grabbed a car, and drove a scenic stretch to a tiny town called Craig. There, perched above the spectacular Missouri River, sits Rivenrock Lodge — a beautifully restored stone lodge owned by Robert and Sherry Gibson, who also happen to own Hotel Cheval down in Paso Robles, California.

They’re both fishing enthusiasts, design lovers, and as we quickly discovered, exceptional hosts. Rivenrock is their passion project, and it shows in every detail: the stonework, the tartan furnishings, the sense of place. It’s part turn-of-the-century sporting lodge, part modern retreat, and 100% Montana magic.

Days That Start with Pancakes and End with Pinot

Each morning began with a hearty breakfast cooked by the lodge’s talented chef — eggs, pancakes, the works — followed by a short stroll or drive upstream to the river, where our guides and drift boats awaited. Fishing pairs set off upstream while others stayed closer to home, casting into the glinting current that flowed right past the lawn.

By lunchtime, we’d drift back for sandwiches and stories before heading out again for the afternoon session. The rhythm was perfect: relaxed but quietly addictive. And by day’s end, we’d all caught a mix of rainbow trout, browns, and a few feisty whitefish (“Montana bonefish,” as our guide joked).

After fishing came a few beers at the local dive bar in Craig. The first afternoon, I thought one of the locals might deck me; by the second night, I’d nicknamed him Smiley. By the third, we were practically hugging. (Montana hospitality just takes a couple of beers to warm up.)

In the evenings, we’d gather around the table for one of Sherry’s epic dinners — five courses that might include shrimp, elk, steak, smoked trout, and whatever else she and the chef dreamt up. Each course came with wines personally selected by Robert — and yes, he’s every bit as passionate about wine as he is about fishing.

The Fishing (and the Fishermen)

Now, for the anglers reading this — you already know the Missouri River near Craig is world-class. It’s a tailwater fishery, which means the flows and temperatures stay steady, and the fishing is consistent almost year-round. The trout are strong, wild, and plentiful — and for a guy who’s cast a fly on five continents, I’ll say this: it’s some of the most satisfying fishing anywhere.

For the record, I caught seven or eight trout in one day — which, for me, is ridiculous (our host caught more than double that — how rude!). Every fish fought hard; every cast was worth it. But the best moment wasn’t mine. It was watching Emma, a novice angler, catch three or four good-sized trout in one afternoon, coached by her brilliant guide Eddie. The grin on her face said it all. And as every husband knows — happy wife, happy life.

Life Beyond the River

Even if you’ve never touched a fly rod, Rivenrock works its charm. The lodge itself feels like a private home, with only five rooms, cozy nooks, and roaring fires. It’s ideal for groups of friends or families to take over exclusively.

And for the non-fishermen, there’s plenty to do:

• Horseback rides through big-sky country

• Scenic hikes and picnics

• Clay shooting and river rafting

• Local art galleries and museums in nearby Helena or Great Falls

• Or simply a massage and a good book by the fire

Every night ends the same way, under a sky so packed with stars you could almost read by starlight.

The Heart of It All

But what made this trip unforgettable wasn’t just the fishing, the food, or the setting. It was Robert and Sherry — and their entire team. Their warmth, humor, and generosity set the tone for everything. They’re the kind of people who love life, love people, and love sharing what they’ve built.

So, thank you, Travis, for the invitation. Thank you, Robert and Sherry, for being the kind of hosts everyone wishes they had. And thank you, Montana for the trout, the laughter, and a few memories I’ll carry for a long time.

Rivenrock Lodge sits in Craig, Montana, about halfway between Helena and Great Falls — on a private mile of the Missouri River, one of the world’s premier fly-fishing destinations.

They offer all-inclusive stays (meals, wine, guides, and gear), five cozy rooms, and truly world-class hospitality. If you’re interested in Rivenrock, reach out and I’ll happily connect you with Robert and Sherry for an adventure of a lifetime.