Before I left for my horseback riding safari across Kenya, everyone asked me the same question. What do you do if a lion comes at you?
I can now answer from experience…
How It Started
When I told John Spence I wanted to see lions and elephants, he came back with a question of his own. “So how good are you actually at riding horses?”
I told him I was decent and asked why.
“How would you like to do a horseback riding safari?”
I couldn’t believe something like that existed, and once I knew of it, I had to do it.
For some background, I grew up riding and have been obsessed with horses and ellies since I was little. They’re my two favorite animals. Both have such a calming nature and wisdom beyond what we know.
Riding one of my favorite animals while seeing the other in person felt like a complete dream come true.
Meet Gizmo
I was lucky enough to be paired with the perfect buckskin pony, Gizmo. He was speedy, trustworthy and had a bit of spunk. He always listened, knew his way around the Mara and took great care of me.
Growing up, I rode at a barn in Rancho Santa Fe, in a plush sand arena. So, open plains full of rocks, wildlife and river crossings were a whole new ball game.
My legs were aching a bit by day three after six to seven hours in the saddle, but the beauty and the fun of the rides carried me through all seven days.
The Route
The safari was seven nights of camping. Over the week we covered more than 250 km (50 km in a single day) across four different camps, which the team packed up and moved as we rode.
We camped alongside the Mara River, falling asleep to the snorts of hippos and listening to them come onto land to graze through the night, and by day we galloped past the wildlife.
“Camping” is an understatement.
There were fresh flowers, plush cots, glass cups, boots polished every day, and you could even get your laundry done. This was full blown glamping.
The Daily Routine
My mornings started around 6:30, when one of the camp staff woke me with coffee in bed just as the sun peeked over the ridge.
After a light bite, we’d start our morning ride around 7. The horses were already tacked up and waiting. All you had to do was slip your boots on.
Under the orange Mara sunrise, we walked, trotted and galloped across the reserve, watching the nocturnal animals settle in for the day and everyone else wake up.
By the end of the week, riding past zebra, giraffes and buffalo almost felt normal.
After the morning ride came a classic fry-up and some rest. Some afternoons, to give our legs a break, we’d swap the saddle for a Land Rover and head out on a game drive before siesta.
On moving days we aimed to cover serious ground, and the Offbeat team would drive ahead and set up breakfast for us under a shady acacia before we carried on riding.
Our bellies were always full of fantastic food and our drinks were always topped off. I still can’t believe we were “camping.”
Our guide Daisy was the gem of it all, with endless stories from her years guiding and riding across the world and the Mara. She called the whole thing “glorified adult day care,” and honestly, it fits perfectly.
Offbeat was so in tune with every detail that I never once had to think about what to eat or where to be. I always felt taken care of.
The Lioness
Now, glorified adult day care doesn’t mean we were prancing around with butterflies and bees.
We were a herd of African safari cowgirls and cowboys.
We galloped alongside giraffes, crossed the Mara River right in front of hippos, and were even charged by a lioness. Because when you’re riding a prey animal across the Mara, you’ve added yourself to the food chain.
With elephants, lions and hippos we kept our distance, but nature has a way of doing its own thing.
On one of our long moving days, we were riding through a canyon with elevated rocks and brush on the left and a river on the right.
The perfect spot for a hunt.
Daisy spotted a lioness high on the ridge, watching us file through. She told us to stay ready and keep our heads on a swivel. I was toward the back of the group with Gizmo and our other guide, Dunkin.
The moment our backs (and our horses’ large behinds) were turned, the lioness charged down the hill with serious speed.
My first instinct? Run, of course!
But we had to turn and face her to make sure a hunt didn’t start.
Daisy and Dunkin reacted in a flash. They faced her, cracked their whips as hard as they could and yelled. My heart was racing. Gizmo stood his ground. The lioness stopped in her tracks, and there we all were, staring at her hungry face.
Daisy cussed her out with a “Back OFF, B****!” plus a few other choice words.
The lioness thought twice and backed away. We regathered ourselves quickly and got out of the prey zone.
Moral of the story, if a lion comes at you, cuss it out with all your might.
Why Horseback Is Different
Riding in the Mara means being ready for anything, whether it’s a lioness, a warthog popping out of its den, or a field of rocks to weave through. But it also feels bonding and authentic in a way a vehicle never could.
It’s quieter. There’s no engine roaring. You hear the crunch of your horse’s hooves and the little sounds of the topi and impala around you.
You feel a bit more on edge, but it feels right. We humans should be a little afraid of lions and elephants.
One evening we came across a mama giraffe with a newborn so fresh it still had traces of birth on it. That’s a moment a car engine could scare away, in a place a car could never reach.
Stuck With the Elephants
Of course, the car had its moments too. On one of our afternoon drives, we found ourselves in a muddy spot where the Land Rover got stuck.
In most situations, you’d hop out and push. But there was a herd of elephants in eyesight, led by a big mama happily snacking away. And mama elephants do not appreciate anyone intruding on their family’s space.
So we waited for the herd to move along and called in reinforcements.
Our backup was a ways off, which meant we had time to simply sit in the bush, listening to the birds chirp and soaking in the beauty of being stuck in the middle of an elephant herd.
And because this was a posh game drive, the cooler was stocked and ready. White wine, beer and cola, all perfectly chilled.
What would be considered a hiccup turned into one of my favorite afternoons. We sipped cold beers, got to know one another and watched the elephants go about their day.
That’s the beauty of the African bush. You never know what’s waiting around the bend.
Around the Fire
My group was a fantastic mix of Brits, Aussies, an Argentinian, and I shared a tent with a Swiss girl who turned into a quick friend. By the end of the week we felt less like strangers and more like a herd of our own, swapping stories over sundowners and staying up late around the bonfire.
We even watched the World Cup final together out in the Mara ( a long night for the Argentinian).
On our final night, the Maasai warriors came to our camp to share their traditional dance and jumping, after we’d spent time earlier in the trip visiting a local village and seeing a traditional manyatta.
Watching them jump into the night sky with the fire crackling beside us was the perfect send-off and a beautiful glimpse into Maasai tradition.
One More Sunrise Ride
When I got home, I called John and told him it was the best thing I’ve ever done. Then I told him he’d seriously underplayed the riding.
If you’ve dreamt of a safari and you’re comfortable in the saddle, there’s no better way to see the wild of the Mara than on horseback. It’s exhilarating, grounding, and wild in all the right ways. I still dream about one more sunrise ride.
If you’re ready for a safari, reach out to John Spence. He sure knows how to plan an adventure.