When the Expert Becomes the Host: An East Africa Journey with EXP Journeys
In late 2024, a longtime friend and colleague, Kevin Jackson of EXP Journeys, called with a simple question:
“I’ve got a great client who wants to take friends to Africa. What should we do?”
Kevin and I have known each other for more than 16 years. He helped me plan my Kilimanjaro climb back in 2010, so it felt fitting to return the favor.
For once, I wasn’t the connector — I was the Expert.
Poacher turned gamekeeper.
The Brief: A Trip of a Lifetime
We met the client over a very pleasant lunch. His vision was extraordinary: take 20 friends to Africa, cover all costs, and give them the best possible introduction to safari.
Two non-negotiables:
• witness the wildebeest migration
• track mountain gorillas
That was the brief.
Choosing the Right Migration Moment
There are two iconic migration moments.
July–September: the famous Mara River crossings between Tanzania and Kenya. Spectacular — but crowded.
January–March: calving season in the southern Serengeti. Vast plains stretching to the horizon, over a million wildebeest giving birth, zebra foals finding their legs, and predators waiting for opportunity.
This second window offers scale, drama, and far fewer vehicles.
We chose the calving season.
To complete the experience, neighboring Rwanda offered the perfect gorilla trekking finale.
Designing the Journey
The next challenge was logistics.
We needed camps large enough for 20 guests, strong guiding, varied landscapes, and a rhythm that balanced wilderness with comfort.
At one stage the Seychelles was considered as a beach start. Beautiful — but too far and unnecessarily complex.
Instead, we opted for a private island off the Tanzanian coast.
Remote. Elegant. Restorative.
Fanjove Island: A Gentle Arrival
South of Zanzibar, Fanjove Island provided the ideal decompression chamber after long-haul travel. Eco-luxury. Ocean breezes. A slow exhale before safari began.
Southern Serengeti: Migration & First Roars
We flew into the southern Serengeti and settled into Ubuntu Migration Camp, a seasonal mobile camp positioned in the heart of the calving plains.
Within hours there were plent of lions, hyenas, and cheetahs.
Endless wildlife.
The group was buzzing. Africa had arrived.
This wasn’t a polished lodge safari. It was wild, authentic, elemental. The weather behaved. Spirits soared.
Western Serengeti: Grumeti Reserve & Ballooning
Next came the western Serengeti and the private Grumeti Reserve, a conservation success story funded by Paul Tudor Jones after he bought out former hunting concessions.
We stayed at Sabora, a Singita property offering remarkable comfort in a landscape rich with lion prides, vast buffalo herds, and sweeping savannah.
A private hot-air balloon flight became one of many trip highlights — drifting silently at sunrise as the Serengeti unfolded below.
Rwanda: Culture, Reflection & Gorillas
From Tanzania we flew privately to Kigali. A surprise awaited our guests: local tailors measured everyone for bespoke garments using traditional fabrics. The next day they chose textiles in a downtown market before visiting the Kigali Genocide Memorial — a sobering and essential experience.
Rwanda’s past cannot be ignored, and the country ensures it never is.
We continued north to Virunga Lodge, perched above lakes and volcanoes at the edge of Volcanoes National Park. Over two days, the group trekked to different gorilla families. The sightings were extraordinary.
On the final evening, everyone wore their tailored creations. Speeches were made. Glasses raised. Laughter echoed across the mountains.
Travel occasionally gifts moments like this — rare, heartfelt, unforgettable.
What the Group Took Home
Yes, they saw lions, migration herds, and gorillas.
But what stayed with them ran deeper:
• the warmth and pride of local staff
• the dignity and resilience of communities
• the realization that people everywhere want the same things — health, stability, opportunity, joy
• the understanding that travel connects rather than separates
They came for wildlife.
They left with perspective.
Behind the Scenes: The Weight of Responsibility
Hosting and guiding 20 guests across multiple countries is exhilarating — and terrifying. You carry logistics, expectations, safety, and emotional investment.
I’m proud to say it worked. The group didn’t just see Africa. They experienced it.
Why Expert Guidance Matters
This journey reinforced something I believe deeply: Great travel doesn’t happen by accident. It requires timing, trusted partners, local knowledge, and the right experts on the ground.
When those elements align, travel becomes transformative.
Final Thoughts
This trip remains one of the most ambitious and rewarding I’ve been part of — a migration safari, a conservation success story, gorillas in the mist, and a group that truly got it.
It reminded me why we travel. And why, when done thoughtfully, travel can change us for the better.
— John Spence